The La Senda de Camille trail is a remarkable 104 km circular route through the Spanish Pyrenees, and today’s stage takes us from the Lizara Refuge to Puerto del Somport, marking the completion of the trail’s circuit. This final stretch offers an exciting variety of terrain, spectacular views, and a combination of physical challenges that make it one of the most rewarding hiking experiences in the region.
In this detailed account, we’ll walk through the journey step by step, offering tips and insights for future hikers looking to explore this iconic route.
Trail Overview
- Location: Spanish Pyrenees, part of the Western Pyrenees range
- Difficulty: Medium – the hike involves a combination of climbs, descents, and some technical sections.
- Duration: Approximately 7 hours 30 minutes of active hiking.
- Altitude Gain/Loss:
- Elevation Gain: 1100 meters
- Elevation Loss: 1000 meters
- Weather Considerations: Weather can be unpredictable, with frequent rain and occasional fog, so proper gear is a must.
Preparing for the Hike
Before you head out, it’s important to make sure you have the right equipment. While you can complete this stage of the trail without too much gear, having a GPX file to guide you through less-marked sections can be invaluable. The hike is fairly straightforward but some parts can be tricky, especially when visibility is low due to clouds or fog. Good, sturdy hiking shoes with proper grip are essential, especially in wet conditions.
Essentials to Pack:
- Good hiking boots or trail shoes
- Waterproof jacket (for the inevitable rain)
- Water and snacks for the trail
- Map or GPX file to help with navigation
- Sun protection (hat, sunscreen)
- Camera to capture the stunning landscapes
- Layered clothing for changing weather conditions
The Start of the Day: A Quiet Escape from Lizara Refuge
We begin the day at a peaceful camping spot just above Lizara Refuge, allowing us to avoid the crowds and enjoy a more solitary experience with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding valley. This also means a smaller initial climb, which is a relief after a few long days of trekking. The air is cool, and the early morning mist still clings to the mountain ridges as we make our way into the valley.
Though the skies were clearer yesterday, today’s weather takes a turn, with clouds enveloping the valley. Light rain soon begins to fall, and though it adds to the atmosphere, it also makes the rocky trail slippery. Fortunately, the rain remains gentle, and we find shelter in one of the abandoned mountain huts. The rustic hut is a perfect place to take a brief respite, enjoy a snack, and warm up a bit.
After a break, we step out into the drizzle, hoping the rain will subside. Thankfully, the clouds part briefly, giving us a glimpse of blue skies, though they remain distant. The trail is initially a steady climb through a gorgeous valley, with the mountain sides steeply rising on either side. Occasionally, the sun manages to peek through the clouds, casting beautiful rays across the landscape.
Grassy Plateaus and Wildlife Encounters
After about an hour of climbing, we reach a grassy plateau, a welcome relief from the steeper sections behind us. The plateau, though populated by grazing cattle, offers expansive views of the surrounding landscape. The ringing of cowbells provides a natural soundtrack as we walk through the pastures, keeping an eye out for any local wildlife.
It’s on this plateau that we spot a few chamois, their agile forms darting across the slopes. Their graceful movements are a reminder of the rugged beauty of the Pyrenees. As we continue, we are hopeful to catch sight of marmots, which are known to inhabit this region, though today’s hike does not grant us this reward.
The plateau stretches on for a while, offering the perfect opportunity to take a break and enjoy the stunning views of the Pyrenean mountains. The trail flattens slightly, allowing us to move at a more relaxed pace, soaking in the beauty around us. We encounter only a handful of other hikers, leaving us with a sense of peaceful solitude.
Descending to Ibón de Estanes – A Stunning Mountain Lake
From the plateau, the trail gradually begins to descend toward the picturesque Ibón de Estanes, a large, shimmering mountain lake nestled between the peaks. As we descend, we are rewarded with increasingly magnificent views, though the weather begins to worsen, and the clouds once again roll in.
The descent to the lake is not too steep, but the changing weather makes the ground muddy in places, requiring careful footing. Eventually, we are treated to a glimpse of the lake from above, and it takes our breath away. The sight of the crystal-clear waters surrounded by jagged peaks is one of the highlights of the entire trail.
We decide to take a well-earned lunch break beside the lake, marveling at the scenery and reflecting on the journey so far. By now, the trail has become noticeably busier, as we are now within range of a nearby town, making this a popular spot for day hikers.
Detour into a Forest and Waterfall Crossings
Instead of heading directly toward the town for a night’s stay, we decide to take a detour, following a dirt trail that veers off to the right. We can already spot a cirque in the distance, a natural amphitheater of rock that promises even more jaw-dropping views. The detour proves to be a great decision, as we walk through an enchanting forest that exudes an ancient, mysterious atmosphere. The trees seem to whisper with the wind, and the stillness is almost magical.
Soon, we hear the distant sound of rushing water, which grows louder as we approach a waterfall. It’s an impressive sight, and we carefully cross a small stream that feeds into the waterfall. The sound is deafening as we make our way across slippery rocks. It’s important to note that some crossings, especially in the spring or after heavy rain, can be treacherous, and hikers should take care to follow trail markers and research trail conditions before embarking on the hike.
The Final Stretch: Fog, Rain, and the Last Push
With our detour behind us, the final stretch of the hike presents us with one last challenge. The weather takes a turn for the worse with fog rolling in, and the rain intensifies, making it harder to stay on course. We lose the trail briefly, but fortunately, the markings are still visible, and we press on, knowing that the end is near.
The final push to Col de Somport feels long and exhausting, as the day has already been physically demanding. The fog and rain make visibility poor, and we take a few moments to catch our breath and recalibrate our direction. Despite the difficulty, the sense of accomplishment as we reach Puerto del Somport is unparalleled.
Conclusion: The End of One Journey, the Start of Another
After hours of trekking through dramatic landscapes, we arrive at Col de Somport, the refuge marking the end of the La Senda de Camille trail. The refuge itself is modest but welcoming, offering much-needed warmth and comfort. The showers here are especially appreciated after the long day of hiking.
While this marks the official end of the trail, Puerto del Somport also serves as the starting point for the Tour of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, another epic adventure for experienced hikers looking for more challenges in the Pyrenees.
The day has been long, demanding, and filled with incredible beauty. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or someone planning your next big adventure, La Senda de Camille offers one of the best hiking experiences in Europe. With breathtaking scenery, diverse landscapes, and a rich variety of wildlife, the Pyrenees continue to captivate those who venture through their rugged paths.
Travel Tips and Recommendations:
- Weather: Be prepared for changing weather conditions, including rain and fog. Always check the forecast before setting out.
- Navigation: Bring a GPX file and familiarize yourself with the route to avoid losing your way, especially in low visibility conditions.
- Wildlife Watching: Keep your eyes peeled for chamois, marmots, and other wildlife. Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times to spot them.
- Crossings: Be cautious when crossing streams and waterfalls, particularly after rainfall or during spring melts.
- Trail Timing: Although the trail is doable in one long day, consider extending your hike to fully appreciate the scenery.
